Chimney tuckpointing for homes in Homestead
We rake out failed mortar to sound depth and repoint with a mix that suits your brick.
- Owned and run locally
- Available for same-day service
- Fully licensed and insured
- Family owned and run
When chimney joints start to give way
- Plants rooting in the mortar joints
- Loose brick where joints have washed out
- Thin mortar smeared over old joints
- Dark wet patches that linger on the brick
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Chimney repointing in Homestead, start to finish
Mortar chosen under the masonry mortar standard
Mortar for masonry is classified under the ASTM standard for unit masonry mortar. Brick industry guidance on mortar selection says no single mortar is best for every purpose. The right choice depends on the brick, the exposure and the job the joint must do.
The same guidance recommends the lowest compressive strength that meets the project's needs. For repointing, that usually means a mix that is workable, bonds well and stays softer than the units. We explain which class of mortar we plan to use and why it suits your chimney.
Caulk pushed into mortar joints
Sealant squeezed into open joints can look like a quick fix. It is not mortar. It does not fill the joint to depth, it blocks moisture from leaving and it peels as it ages and can take loose mortar with it.
We remove caulk from joints before repointing, along with the failed mortar behind it. The joint is then raked, cleaned and filled like any other. If caulk was used in many places, the estimate notes the extra preparation so the scope is clear.
Joints at the roof line and the flashing
Where the chimney meets the roof, counter flashing is often set into a mortar joint. If that joint has failed, water can get behind the flashing. If the flashing itself is loose, water can reach the joints and brick below.
We look at both when the roof-line joints are in poor shape. Repointing covers the mortar. Re-forming or resetting the flashing is flashing work with its own line on the estimate. We explain how the two relate, so neither is fixed in a way that damages the other.
Using the fireplace during joint work
Repointing happens on the outside of the chimney, but the mortar is still curing for a while after it goes in. Heat from a fire warms the masonry around the flue and can dry fresh joints faster than planned.
We tell you whether to hold off on fires during the project and when normal use can resume. The answer depends on where we worked and the mortar used. If an appliance vents into the chimney, tell us before work starts so its flue stays clear throughout.
Joint repair items on a written estimate
- Joint profile that sheds water
- Dust control and covers during raking
- Separate lines for crown or flashing work
- Written record of faces and joints renewed
Repointing answers for Homestead
How long does new mortar take to cure?
Mortar hardens gradually and keeps gaining strength after it looks set. We keep new joints damp and shaded as needed and tell you what to avoid while it cures, such as washing the brick or using cleaners on it.
Why do some joint shapes hold up better on a chimney?
Concave and V-shaped joints are pressed tight against the brick when tooled, which helps them resist water. Recessed or ledged joints can hold water on the face. We discuss matching the existing look against weather resistance.
Why did earlier repointing fall out of the joints?
Shallow preparation is a frequent reason. When old mortar is not raked deep enough, a thin skin of new mortar has little to grip. A mix that is too hard, or water still entering the wall, can also cause it.
Proudly American
Local service. Careful repairs. A fireplace worth coming home to.
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Chimney & Fireplace Brands We Work With
DuraVent 
Olympia Chimney and Venting 
Copperfield Chimney Supply 
Rutland 
Heatilator 
Heat & Glo