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Raking and repointing chimney joints in Lauderdale Lakes

Damaged bricks found during raking are shown to you and priced as their own item.

  • Owned and run locally
  • Available for same-day service
  • Fully licensed and insured
  • Family owned and run

Joint trouble you can spot from the yard

  • Sandy grit at the base of the chimney
  • Gaps opening between brick and mortar
  • Caulk pushed into open joints
  • Dark wet patches that linger on the brick
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Tuckpointing decisions for homes in Lauderdale Lakes

Why fast grinders can damage brick edges

A grinder can clear a joint quickly, and it can also chip brick corners and cut into the brick above or below. Federal preservation guidance warns that power saws used on thin brick joints almost always cause that damage. Once cut, the brick edge cannot be restored.

Damaged edges also make joints look wider than they are and leave thin, fragile mortar at the face. We keep grinders away from joints where they would harm the brick. If a power tool helps on some horizontal joints, final cleaning is still done by hand.

Clearing thin slivers of old mortar

After raking, thin slivers of old mortar can cling to the brick edges. Brick industry guidance says they must come off so the new mortar bonds to brick, not to a loose film. A sliver left in place can become a crack line later.

We check the edges of each raked joint before any new mortar goes in. Slivers are removed without chipping the brick. It is a small step that is easy to skip. It is also hard to spot once the joints are full, which is why the estimate mentions it.

Joint shapes that hold water on a chimney

Some joint finishes suit interior walls better than chimneys. Brick industry guidance does not recommend raked, struck, flush and similar joints outside. They are not compacted at the surface, or they leave small ledges where water can sit.

On a chimney, water resting on those ledges soaks into the joint and the brick edge. We point out when an existing profile is part of the water problem. Changing it is a choice with visual consequences, so we explain both sides before any repointing starts.

Mortar is meant to give before the brick

Federal preservation guidance describes mortar as the sacrificial part of a masonry wall. It takes the stresses of movement and moisture so the bricks do not, and it is renewed from time to time while the bricks remain.

That idea shapes every repointing choice we make. A joint that wears out over time has done its job. A brick that cracks because the joint was too strong has not. We choose materials that keep that order, so the brick in your chimney can outlast more than one round of joint repair.

What we check before quoting repointing

  • Color and texture match to existing joints
  • Sample area where the finish matters
  • Joint profile that sheds water
  • Dust control and covers during raking

Answers about chimney repointing

How deep are the old joints raked out?

Deep enough to reach sound mortar, to an even depth that relates to the joint width, as brick industry guidance describes. Shallow raking leaves new mortar too thin to hold, which is one reason earlier repointing sometimes falls out.

How does the 72-hour window work on repointing?

If you approve the repointing, or anything else on the estimate, before 72 hours have gone by since your free inspection, we take 10% off. The clock starts at your own visit.

Do you test a small area before repointing the whole chimney?

On larger or visible jobs, a sample area confirms color, texture and profile before the rest proceeds. Brick industry and federal preservation guidance both recommend sample panels. We explain whether one suits your chimney.

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