Your masonry fireplace, fitted with a wood insert in Seven Isles
Choosing an insert starts with the opening you have, measured in height, width and depth, not only across the front.
- Owned and run locally
- Available for same-day service
- Fully licensed and insured
- Family owned and run
Reasons to consider a wood insert for your fireplace
- Little warmth from an open fire
- Drafts from an open damper
- A faceplate that no longer seals
- An insert that is hard to light
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The insert installation, explained step by step
Setting the insert level and centered
An insert has to sit level and centered in the opening for the faceplate to fit and the door to close properly. The flue collar also has to line up with the liner connection. Small adjustments here make a large difference to the finished look.
We check level and alignment before the final push into place and again after the faceplate is fitted. If the hearth or firebox floor is uneven, we explain the options before setting the unit. The door and latch are checked at the end.
What stays out of the insert
Manuals list materials that do not belong in a wood insert, including treated wood, painted or coated lumber, garbage, cardboard, colored paper, plywood and driftwood. Burning them can release toxic fumes, damage the unit or cause heavy soot. Many wood insert manuals exclude coal as well.
We go over the list at handover, because some items seem harmless. Scrap lumber from a project, packaging and gift wrap all fall into the excluded groups. Natural wood that is dry and split is what the insert was tested with.
Manufactured logs and fire starters
According to EPA guidance, plenty of wax and sawdust logs are intended only for open hearth fireplaces. It tells owners to read the insert's instructions before burning artificial logs. Insert manuals often limit fuel to natural wood. The label and manual settle the question for your model.
We explain what your manual says about fire starters and manufactured logs. Natural fire starters and dry kindling are the usual approach. Liquid accelerants such as gasoline or lighter fluid do not belong in any wood insert, whatever the label says about other fuels.
The smoke chamber and damper area above the firebox
Above the firebox, the smoke chamber and damper area are where the liner passes on its way up. Rough masonry, a broken damper frame or loose parging can snag the liner or hide damage. The inspection looks at this area closely before relining.
If repairs are needed there, they are written as separate items before the liner goes in. Once the insert is installed, the smoke chamber is hard to reach, so it makes sense to deal with it first. We explain what we see and what we recommend.
What we confirm before fitting an insert
- Masonry repairs as separate items
- Continuous liner sized to the collar
- Faceplate panels and insulation strips
- Debris cleanup and haul-away
Asked before a wood insert goes in
Do I need a liner all the way to the chimney top?
Current insert manuals call for a continuous liner from the insert's collar to the top of the chimney. The old masonry flue then encloses the liner rather than carrying the smoke. We include the liner as part of the installation, not as an extra.
How close can furniture sit to a wood insert?
The manual for your model sets the clearances and the protected floor area, and furniture belongs outside them. We point out those zones at handover. Keep rugs, cushions and stored wood out of the area in front of the loading door.
What happens to the chimney top while the liner goes in?
The liner is usually installed from the roof. Any open chimney top is covered at the close of each work day until the top plate and cap are set. Old parts and packaging leave with us when the job is finished.
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Our team will contact you to arrange your inspection.
Chimney & Fireplace Brands We Work With
DuraVent 
Olympia Chimney and Venting 
Copperfield Chimney Supply 
Rutland 
Heatilator 
Heat & Glo