
Fitting a wood-burning insert in Three Lakes, liner and all
The host fireplace gets a proper look first, because an insert depends on sound masonry around it.
- Owned and run locally
- Available for same-day service
- Fully licensed and insured
- Family owned and run
Problems a new wood-burning insert can address
- A masonry fireplace sitting unused
- Smoke puffing from an existing insert
- Soot on the face above the opening
- No floor protection in front of the unit
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Turning a masonry fireplace into a wood insert host
Break-in fires for a new insert
A new insert gives off a paint odor during its early fires while the high-temperature paint cures. Manuals ask for moderate fires at first and ventilation while the odor lasts. Burning very hot too early can damage the finish.
We explain how many small fires the manual expects before full use and how to ventilate the room. Do not set anything on top of the insert while the paint cures. The early days can also bring harder starts as the firebrick and flue dry out.
Getting to know the insert's air control
Most inserts have a primary air control that sets how fast the fire burns. Opening it gives a hotter, faster fire, and closing it slows the burn. Manuals describe starting with the air fully open, then adjusting once the fire is established.
We show you the control on your insert and how it relates to the settings the manual describes. We also explain the manual's warnings about turning the air down too far, too soon. A steady, well-managed fire burns cleaner and keeps the glass clearer.
Keeping the insert door closed
An insert is designed to burn with its door closed. Manuals warn that a door left partly open can draw gases and flame out of the unit. EPA guidance also says to keep wood-burning appliance doors closed except when loading or stoking. The glass door is part of the safety design.
We show you the loading routine the manual gives, including opening the air control before slowly opening the door. That order reduces smoke rolling out during reloading. Close the door and latch it as soon as the wood is in.
Liner top parts where sea air settles
The top plate, cap and fasteners of a liner system sit in the open at the chimney top. Where marine air carries chlorides, galvanized parts lose their zinc coating faster, according to the American Galvanizers Association. Different metals touching each other can also corrode faster in that setting.
We use the top parts the liner system lists and ask the maker about material choices for this exposure. During maintenance visits the cap and top plate get a close look for rust at seams and fasteners. Any part that needs replacing comes from the same system.
Insert items you approve before work in Three Lakes
- Baffles and smoke deflector in place
- Air control and blower walkthrough
- Removal of an old insert if present
- Manual and listing details handed over
Before you book an insert installation
Can I use my old fireplace grate inside the insert?
Many insert manuals say not to use a grate or andirons and to build the fire directly on the firebrick floor. We remove any old grate before installation and show you how the manual wants the wood arranged.
Can you cut the firebox to fit a larger insert?
No. Insert manuals say not to remove bricks or mortar from the masonry fireplace. If the insert you like is too large, we look for a model that fits the opening as it is and explain the difference.
What kind of wood should we burn in the insert?
Dry, split, seasoned natural wood, as the manual specifies. Treated or painted wood, garbage, cardboard and colored paper stay out. We explain how to judge dryness at handover, including with a simple moisture meter.
Proudly American
Local service. Careful repairs. A fireplace worth coming home to.
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Chimney & Fireplace Brands We Work With
DuraVent 
Olympia Chimney and Venting Copperfield Chimney Supply 
Rutland Heatilator Heat & Glo
