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Chimney flashing reset, resealed or replaced in Homestead

Give the go-ahead within 72 hours of your free inspection, and the flashing work is 10% off.

  • Owned and run locally
  • Available for same-day service
  • Fully licensed and insured
  • Family owned and run

Flashing trouble you may notice in Homestead

  • Rust streaks on roofing below the chimney
  • Thick black roof cement around the base
  • Dark or soft roof deck by the chimney
  • Wet attic insulation around the stack
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Flashing repair decisions you can follow

Lifting shingles around the stack

On an asphalt shingle roof, the shingles around the chimney are usually lifted rather than torn off. The old step pieces slide out and new ones go in, each tucked under its course. The counter flashing then comes down over them from the brick.

Shingles that have gone brittle may crack as they are lifted. When that seems likely, we say so beforehand and list replacement shingles as a separate item. Keep any spare bundles from the original roof if you have them. They help the area around the chimney blend with the rest of the roof.

Where the code expects flashing

The Florida Building Code asks for flashing wherever roofing is interrupted or ends. It names wall and roof intersections and roof openings, and a chimney is both at once. The purpose written into the code is plain: keep water out of the wall and roof at those joints.

Where the flashing is metal, the code calls for corrosion-resistant metal no thinner than its table allows. We use metal that meets that table. Tell us if a past repair used a thin or unknown sheet, and we will check how it has held up before deciding whether it stays.

Planning roof access for flashing work

Reaching a chimney safely in Homestead depends on roof pitch, height, surface and what sits below. A steep tile roof on a second story needs a different setup from a low shingle roof. Access affects how long the job takes and what equipment comes on the visit.

Tell us when you book about the height of the roof and anything under the chimney, such as a pool deck, planters or a skylight. If ladders have to stand in a particular spot, let us know about gates, pets and parked cars. We plan access before the day of the work, not on arrival.

Brick damage right at the roof line

The bricks just above the roof line can stay wet longer than the rest of the chimney, because runoff and splash from the roof keep hitting them. Over time their faces may flake or their joints may wash out, right where the counter flashing is set.

We check those courses closely. If the brick is sound, the counter flashing goes back into its joint. If faces are breaking away, the brick work is listed separately, and we explain whether it should happen before the new flashing goes in.

Scope notes for chimney flashing work

  • Uphill face and back pan
  • Underlayment at the chimney face
  • Protection for roof, yard and windows
  • Workmanship warranty on installed flashing

Your flashing repair questions

How do you know the flashing is the source of the water?

We compare where the water appears with what we see at the junction, in the attic and at the top of the chimney. When the evidence is unclear, a hose water test may help if the job calls for it. The findings say what points where.

What separates step flashing from counter flashing on a chimney?

Step flashing is the set of base pieces woven into the roofing along the sloped sides. Counter flashing comes down from the brick and covers the top of those pieces. The two overlap rather than join, so each stays with its own surface.

Can one side of the flashing be fixed without the others?

Yes, if the other faces are sound. The new pieces have to lap correctly into the old ones at each corner. If the old corners are too worn to join, we explain why the work should extend around them.

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