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Factory-built or masonry fireplaces, installed in Lighthouse Point

Replacing a failed prefab unit starts with the listing of the new one and the condition of the old enclosure.

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Starting points for installing a wood fireplace in Lighthouse Point

  • Rusted metal inside an old fireplace
  • A blank wall where a fire belongs
  • An old unit that fails its listing
  • Missing parts nobody can identify
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Installing a wood-burning fireplace, one decision at a time

Settle the fuel before the fireplace

This page covers wood-burning fireplaces. If you would rather have a gas unit or an electric one, those are separate installations with their own rules, parts and trades. Settling the fuel early sends the project to the right plan and keeps two quotes from describing different jobs.

Mention any fuel you are still weighing when you call. We can explain how the choice changes the chimney, the hearth and the framing. You then decide with the practical differences in view, rather than after an enclosure has been built around the wrong unit.

Protective strips where hearth meets unit

Several manuals call for metal hearth strips or a specified seam detail where the unit's front meets the hearth extension. The strip covers the joint so embers cannot slip into a gap and reach the floor structure. Leaving it out to suit a tile layout is not an option the listing gives.

We set the strips or seam detail the manual shows, and your hearth finish can then butt up to them. If the strips clash with the look you want, we explain what alternatives the maker lists. Anything outside that list stays off the table.

A masonry fireplace starts at the footing

A masonry fireplace and its chimney are heavy, so the code requires a footing of concrete or solid masonry beneath them. It must extend past the fireplace on every side and rest on undisturbed soil or engineered fill. The footing is designed before any brick is laid.

This is why a masonry fireplace is rarely added to an upper floor. We explain what the footing means for your slab or crawlspace, including any cutting and excavation. If the footing is not practical, we discuss a factory-built unit that the framing can carry.

Signs a factory-built unit has reached its end

Warped or burned-through firebox metal, rust holes in the outer casing and chimney sections that have separated all point to a unit near the end. So does a model whose maker no longer supplies refractory or chimney parts. Operating a damaged unit is something the manuals prohibit.

Tell us what you have seen and how the fireplace has behaved. We confirm the condition during the free inspection and explain which findings are cosmetic and which affect safety. The decision to replace comes from those findings, not from the age of the unit alone.

The installation checklist behind your estimate in Lighthouse Point

  • Proposed fireplace location and room use
  • Structural support for chimney sections
  • Exhaust fans and house pressure review
  • Separate pricing for each installation item

Before you book a fireplace installation

Which suits my house, a factory-built or a masonry fireplace?

It depends on the structure, the room and how you plan to use the fire. Masonry needs a footing and more time, while a factory-built unit is framed in and follows its listing. We explain both for your house after the inspection.

How is the size of the hearth extension decided?

For a factory-built unit, its manual sets the size, material and any protection beneath it. For masonry, the code ties the extension to the size of the opening. We outline it on your floor during planning so you can see its reach.

Is the workmanship on the installation covered?

Yes. We back our installation work with a workmanship warranty, and the maker's product warranty covers the fireplace itself under its own terms. The written record shows which parts of the job fall under each.

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